in Bikes and Gear

I got one of the RaceFace narrow-wide rings (similar to the new shape of the SRAM 1x11 specific chainrings) and paired it with my X-9 Type II rear derailleur. I'm not using a chain guide and haven't had the chain drop yet (~10 hrs or so or riding).

Some bikes are just different. I did over 300 miles on my '12 Specialized SJ FSR with no bash guard and no chain tender running 1X10 with Renthal 32T front chain ring. I never had the chain drop. Recently I changed to a 28T and put about 50 miles on it. I did have the chain drop once @ the end coming down Quarry ridge but... I went a bit off trail accidentally and hit some branches. I think that's when I broke the spoke in my rear wheel. I just switched to a 27T North shore billet front chainring and it's exceptionally smooth. I have about 30 miles on it so far. No dropped chain. No chain tender.

Im loving my 1x10 did the poor mans xx1 with a raceface narrow wide ring and xx1 chain.
Id never go back.
Wolf Tooth has an option if you want some more climbing power. Its a 42t cassette ring that you put under your cassette and remove one of your lower single rings. Runs around 100 for the ring.

Ditto to Rotomon, I have gone with a 1x10 with an adapter out back for a 11-42 cassette (mine is a OneUp cog). Between the narrow-wide ring up front and a clutch in back I've had no problems with chain at all! Also, if you don't think that's enough gears because you want a granny ring, I would recommend riding a bike with this setup, that 42 sure allows you to motor up even the steepest climbs!

Good topic. I have to say I have been intrigued as well. I always thought I wanted the maximum amount of gears available. It would be nice to have one less piece of equipment to mess with and keep adjusted.
Though I never use the little ring at CamRock unless I am riding Cliff Edge, I ride a lot of other places. And I don't want to mess around with my set up. I am Polly more concerned about he low end than the top. I also really don't like to dismount, and will grind it up any hill that I can keep traction on. About 8 out of 10 times I make the Killer Klimb on the Cliff Edge.

I really like my 1x10 setup on my Pugsley. Granted, I did it because all the salt and slush from winter commuting seized up my front derailleur and I just decided to eliminate that problem once and for all. But with a 30t chainring (NOT a narrow/wide), 11-36t cassette, and a SRAM Type 2 (clutch) rear derailleur I can climb most anything. I did Sandy Climb and Ambulance Trail at Quarry Ridge most recently, though if I had lower gears I would've used 'em .

The 1X10 is great. I run 27T in front. Non narrow wide. 11-36T is rear. XT clutch type rear derailleur. I don't have the clutch turned on. I don't drop chain

Sorry to dig up an old topic, but...even with a narrow/wide chainring a clutch type derailleur or a chain guide is still needed?

Sorry to dig up an old topic, but...even with a narrow/wide chainring a clutch type derailleur or a chain guide is still needed?

I've not felt I need a chain guide. We (share bikes with wife) have a poor person's setup and two bikes with SRAM X1. The BH Gully spot that would on occasion throw the chain with my old setups has never done it with either 1x.

The one bike had clutch der and standard ring for a while. IMO that was proof that clutch type is a benefit regardless. That one is the "poor" setup and is Deore, Alivio, cheap FSA OEM crank w/RaceFace ring. It works great.

I've not tried some of the newer options since I last tweaked such as 10 speed cassettes with bigger cogs or the third party der hanger options.

The Deore der shifts great. The only knock is periodic need to lubricate the der pulleys. There's no doubt diminishing returns seen with having the much more expensive SRAM along with the cheap setup.

Right now I'm 2x10 and I hardly ever shift the front. I recently discovered a broken tooth on the chainring that I use the most. Before I just replace that ring I want to look at my options for going 1x, but I have a standard  X9 derailleur (no clutch).

Cyle, I think on a hardtail, you're fine with a narrow/wide ring and a clutch rear derailleur.  My feeling is that some dual suspension bikes that put slack in the chain when the suspension moves through the travel can still throw the chain. 

For instance, Santa Cruz was specing the Bronson with SRAMs XX1 group and a chain guide at least for a while.

I run a chain guide on my RIP9, but I'm also not running a narrow/wide ring.  When I went to 1x10, the narrow/wides weren't as prevalent as they are now, and when I replaced stuff this spring, the regular rings were on closeout so I stuck with the guide. 

Nate, I wasn't planning on switching/upgrading my rear derailleur. You think I'd be asking for trouble just using that and a narrow/wide ring? I suppose the cheapest thing to do is just replace the ring with the broken tooth since that's really the only one I use, but for not much more money I can get a narrow/wide direct mount ring and get rid of a ring, shifter and front derailleur.

What kind of crank are you running?

How old is your chain/cassette? 

I'd be concerned (potentially) if you're replacing a ring and not the chain/cassette too if they're older and haven't been swapped in a while. 

Chain and cassette are new, only 2 rides on them. The old chain didn't seem stretched but I had a bent tooth on the cassette so I replaced the chain when I replaced that. I thought the chainrings looked okay. Either I completely missed the broken tooth or it somehow happened on the last two rides. I'm running a Sram S1400 crank.

I'd get one of these...
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=53488&category=5644
and one of these...
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=40554&category=56

For the chain guide setup.

Or go with a narrow/wide ring and a clutch rear derailleur.