in Beginners, Newbies, Noobz, etc (Moderators: imwjl, TheMayor1)

You can squeeze or tie cinch a section of rope around the tire to help it seat and use a floor pump. A second set of hands can help it too.

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You can squeeze or tie cinch a section of rope around the tire to help it seat and use a floor pump. A second set of hands can help it too.

I witnessed Walter do it with a belt on wheelbarrow tire!

That's not crazy at all. Works for industrial, ATV, various tubeless tires that use slime and weight of the wheel or tire make sealing the bead difficult. The bit of compression and wet bead usually seals.

You can squeeze or tie cinch a section of rope around the tire to help it seat and use a floor pump. A second set of hands can help it too.

I witnessed Walter do it with a belt on wheelbarrow tire!

That's not crazy at all. Works for industrial, ATV, various tubeless tires that use slime and weight of the wheel or tire make sealing the bead difficult. The bit of compression and wet bead usually seals.

I refuse to explain why I had a need to do this: But suffice it to say that I had one Avalanche tire completely off the bead on those huge 19" tires this winter. A couple of ratchet straps, and some compressed air and I was back on the road in 20 minutes. No need to even get the spare out :D
So it definitely does work.

Sounds funny.
I can see how you could get it to work.
The rope thing is probably a bit to McGyver for a person trying to learn how to do it the first time?
I find that setting up tubeless is another one of those things that can be difficult and frustrating the first time or two you try it - then you learn a couple key technique things and it becomes much easier.  The right tools and gear up front help a lot.

I have done this technique a few times over my 11 years as an auto technician with ratchet straps.  I've found it mostly doesn't work very well, but it has a few times, squeezing the middle of the tire pushes the beads out toward the rim just enough to get them to catch occasionally. 

That being said though car tires and bike tires are a little different.  I really don't see it working on something as flimsy as a bike tire that's only an inch or two wide.

Another trick of that trade is put some gasoline in the tire and throw a match in it, that's how farmers do large tractor tires, if anybody tries this please video it!

The best way to seat any bead on any tire is by increasing the VOLUME of air apllied to it. 

So I assume a presta-to-schrader adapter is necessary to use a compressor? I seat my own motorcycle tires at home all the time, so I sort of get the concept. But I'd hate to blow the tire with too much PSI! Scot, what's the highest pressure you use with your compressor to seat the beads?

So I assume a presta-to-schrader adapter is necessary to use a compressor?

I found that the presta to schrader adaptor didn't work very well.  I made my own version of this

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=34165&category=132

Using the pictured head that came with my compressor, the end of the hose from an old floor pump and a hose clamp.  It works really well.

I use about 40psi in the tank and it has seated every tire I've tried.  Depending on the tubeless system and the tires you're trying to install, many combos will seat using a floor pump.  Especially the Bontrager TLR system.

By the way, don't google search "air compressor head" unless you want to see something that you can't unsee...






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Honestly I 'd have to go back and look at my compressor to remember.  I think it goes to 90psi but you can dial it down.  I use a trigger just like the one Nate pictured and with the compressor I have (from Walmart, which included the trigger and a lot of adapters and bits) I think I often let it ramp all the way up just because 1) sometimes you can lose quite a bit from the tank if the tire doesn't seat up right away and 2) the trigger gives good enough control - if it seats up fast you can let go of the trigger quickly.  I've never had a problem with over-doing it - I go until the bead pops in and then let go of the trigger immediately.  I do use a presta to schrader adapter (like the one below) and remove the presta valve core - then quickly pop the core in while there's still some air in, and pump back up with a floor pump.  There may be more refined  technique but it works well for me.  I also always use a lot of pretty soapy water when first setting up a tire - more more liberal you are with it the easier this process goes.  I've only been doing this for about 3 years and have set up probably a dozen or so tires this way - I sucked at it initially and now it's a fast and easy process.




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For my non tubeless tires on ust rims I use an old tube that was pinched, pump it up just like running a tube.  Release the air, and break only one bead/side of the tire this way you have one set already.  Then I take the tube out, installed my ust valve and put some stans in.  I did wipe the tire bead with soapy water too just to help more, then used a compressor to air it up and it worked fine.  I run the pressure high enough to ensure the entire bead is fully set too, just be careful on this step so you don't burp it. 

Kind of hard to explain but it worked for me.  Keep in mind I'm running mavic 819's which are ust rims with non ust Maxxis tires.  Also I did not have to put a rim strip in either.  You may have to put more stans in cause you may have some small leaks.

For my non tubeless tires on ust rims I use an old tube that was pinched, pump it up just like running a tube.  Release the air, and break only one bead/side of the tire this way you have one set already.  Then I take the tube out, installed my ust valve and put some stans in.

I do this often too.  Especially with older tires or tires that have been off of a rim for a period of time.

Just buy some 2bliss rims, stans and throw on your tires.  you'll never look back.  I took a chance on some used FLOWS with hopepro2 hubs off ebay.  best thing i've ever done to the bike.  will never go back to tubes!  riding at lower pressure if needed is simply awesome.  this helped me make my decision before converting over a couple years ago.  http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/goodies/go-tubeless.htm

search out some videos and give it a shot.  http://www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-tubeless-conversion-2010.html

don't quote me on this, but i also remember hearing somewhere that taking a pound off the wheels/tires (rotational weight) is like taking 3 lbs off the bike(frame)

I agree totally with Wade.  I run all Bontrager - rims and tires, super easy.  Although the 69er I just picked up Im still running tubes right now, no probs yet, but when I get the energy I know that Machinery Row has the strips and valves and I always have a jug of Stans on hand. :P  One note, always check the juice in the tires at the start of every season, mine are usually always dry.

don't quote me on this, but i also remember hearing somewhere that taking a pound off the wheels/tires (rotational weight) is like taking 3 lbs off the bike(frame)

Is there really that much of a weight savings? It seems you basically trade the weight of a tube for the weight of the juice to me.

Most of the benefits seem to be not worrying about flats as much. Though if you do get a flat it is a much bigger deal. A trade off there. Some talk of a more "supple" feel to the tires. And who doesn't like supple

Of course I am running tubes with juice in them right now, so it would be a weight savings for me. So would one less beer tonight, but that ain't gonna happen :

I think the weight savings is more in theory than in practice.  TLR and UST tires are heavier too.

I do it for the nearly complete reduction in flats.  Repairing a flat isn't any more a big deal if you've got a tubeless set-up, there just may be some mess involved.  The process is exactly the same...I guess you have to remove the valve stem, but that takes a few seconds.  You install a new tube, pump it up and go.

I also like the lower pressure benefits.

I find the initial set-up slight amount mess involved to be completely worth it to go from at least one flat, sometimes 2 flats per ride at Blue Mound to 2 flats (while actually out on the trail) since I switched to tubeless...about 5 years ago.

the key is Reduced rotating weight.  A standard UST tubeless tire is heavier than the corresponding non-tubeless version. But Chuck, you are right, once you allow for the heft of the inner tube, the weight is usually a bit less. (If you add sealant, your weight is about the same, or even slightly more.)

Many tubeless riders, including myself, actually use a standard tire on UST rims with tire sealant. This can shed over 100 grams per wheel.
This reduction of "rotating weight" makes the bike "zippier." It accelerates better, corners faster, brakes faster.  <--- This is what I immediately noticed.  again shedding that rotational weight is like shedding 3 times that on your bike.

you'll know what I mean when you go for that first 2bliss ride.  .....  i couldn't wipe the smile off my face that first 2bliss ride.  simply awesome!